Description
Block walls weep because they’re built to. CMU is an affordable material precisely because it uses less cement — which leaves wide interstitial gaps that drink groundwater and hand it to your basement. Sealers alone can’t fix it: Bone Dry sealers work by reacting with alkali, and pervious block doesn’t carry enough to feed the reaction. The Bone Dry Block Wall system solves it in two steps — the Primer supplies the alkali, and Original or Plus reacts with it to form a permanent moisture seal inside the block itself.

Chemistry that needs a partner
Bone Dry Primer is a colorless, non-toxic, water-based blend of inorganic suspended solids. Sprayed on the interior face, it penetrates deep into the block, filling hairline cracks, small voids, and the interstitial spaces between matrix particles — and depositing the alkali the sealer needs. Then Bone Dry Original or Plus goes on while the primer is still damp, reacts with those deposits, and fills every small space in the substrate to form a permanent water barrier. The wall stays a wall; the barrier lives inside it.
The system
| Step | What it does |
|---|---|
| 1 — Bone Dry Primer | Penetrates deep; fills gaps, cracks, and voids; deposits the alkali the sealer needs |
| 2 — Original or Plus Sealer | Reacts with the primer deposits — permanent moisture seal in the block. Choose Plus for antimicrobial protection in mold-prone basements. |
Why block needs the primer

| Poured concrete | CMU block wall | |
|---|---|---|
| Free alkali | Plenty — sealer reacts fully | Runs short — needs the Primer |
| Porosity | Fine capillaries | Wide interstitial gaps |
| Sealer alone | Works as designed | Not enough — always prime first |
| The system | Sealer | Primer + sealer |
Which surfaces demand the primer?

| Your surface | Use |
|---|---|
| CMU block wall, Shotcrete, Gunite, or extremely porous concrete | Bone Dry Primer + Original or Plus |
| Standard poured concrete slab or wall | Original, Plus, or Pro — no primer needed |
| Painted block (latex, acrylic, polyvinyl) | Strip the paint first — the primer can’t penetrate it |
Application

Good to know: dampen the wall first with a fine water mist — damp, not saturated — then saturate with Primer from a hand-pumped garden sprayer, two full coats at roughly 80–150 square feet per gallon depending on porosity. Use it at full strength only. Time the sealer to the primer: apply Original or Plus when the primer reaches a damp condition. If over-application leaves white deposits, brush or flush them off with water before the next Bone Dry coat — accidental over-application won’t discolor the wall. Keep the surface above 45°F, and shield vegetation and adjacent finishes from overspray outdoors.
Technical data — Bone Dry Primer
| Appearance | Colorless — will not discolor the surface |
| Chemistry | Water-based inorganic suspended solids; no organics, no heavy metals |
| Safety | Non-toxic; non-flammable; no harmful fumes; negligible odor |
| pH / solids / SG | pH 9.0 · 5.1% total solids · specific gravity 1.045 |
| Coverage | ~80–150 sq ft per gallon, by substrate porosity |
| Coats on CMU | 2, fully saturating — hand-pumped garden sprayer |
| Sealer timing | Apply Original or Plus while the primer is damp |
| Dilution | None — full strength only |
| Minimum temperature | 45°F surface; do not store or apply frozen |
| Substrates | Cement-based materials only — not asphalt, metal, wood, or clay brick; not over latex-binder mortar |
Damp block basement? Weeping foundation wall? Send us the wall square footage and we’ll size the Primer and sealer together as one system. Call 262-694-9748 or email info@bonedryproducts.com.












